From Courtroom To Cork In Bangsar: The Lawyer Who Traded Briefs For Bordeaux
Juno specialises in natural wines and European-Asian fusion cuisine, operating in a relaxed, unpretentious atmosphere that makes wine accessible to everyone.
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Lau Jia-Sen had it all figured out – law degree, CLP certification, four solid years building a legal practice.
The 36-year-old from Old Klang Road was living the Malaysian dream: steady paycheck, predictable hours, respectable profession.
Then, in April 2024, everything changed.
“If I’d discovered my passion earlier, I would never have studied law,” Lau told TRP, sipping a cup of artisanal coffee at Juno, his gastro wine bar tucked away in a quiet corner of Bangsar.
Named after the Roman goddess of protection and marriage (Hera in Greek mythology), the venue seems fitting for someone who’s found his true calling.
It’s the kind of confession that makes parents everywhere clutch their pearls, but for this former lawyer-turned-sommelier, it’s pure liberation.
The Great Career Plot Twist
The transition wasn’t exactly overnight. While building his legal career, Lau was moonlighting as a barista – perhaps the universe’s way of dropping hints about his true calling.
Fast forward to today, and he’s running Juno, a spot that’s part wine sanctuary, part culinary playground, where natural wines meet European-Asian fusion in the most unpretentious way possible.
“Wine can be intimidating for the uninitiated,” Lau explains, describing his approach to hospitality.
We want customers to appreciate what we have without feeling like they need a PhD in viticulture.
His 60-70 label collection focuses heavily on natural wines – think free-range chicken, but for grapes.
Minimal intervention, no chemicals, just fruit doing what fruit does best in ideal natural environments.
More Than Just Grape Expectations
The beauty of Juno lies in its refusal to take itself too seriously.
Sure, they’ve got your classic French three to four-course meals and sophisticated wine flights, but they’ve also paired char kuay teow and nasi lemak with wine because why not? It’s this kind of “let’s-see-what-happens” energy that keeps things exciting.
The menu reads like a greatest hits of comfort food with a twist – European-Asian fusion pasta, fresh oysters, quality steaks, and hot doughnuts for dessert.
Lau’s personal favourite is the pepetama pasta, a Japanese take on carbonara that’s “salty, cheesy, savoury, a bit spicy, very Asian.”
It’s the kind of dish that makes you question why anyone ever thought fusion was a dirty word.
Double Life, Double Trouble
But wait, there’s more.
Lau also runs Donut Plan, a doughnut shop that started just before the pandemic hit (talk about timing).
The plan? Merge the two operations at Juno’s location – café by day, wine bar by night. It’s ambitious, slightly crazy, and exactly the kind of move you’d expect from someone who went from practising law to curating wine lists in the span of a year.
“I knew nothing about wine a year ago,” Lau confesses.
I do a lot of reading, ask wine professionals, do tastings, write notes.
It’s the kind of crash course that would make most people’s heads spin, but Lau seems to thrive on the chaos.
The New Normal
These days, Lau wears more hats than a vintage shop – operations manager, front of house, sommelier, cook, HR department, event planner, business development guru, menu curator, and doughnut maker.
It’s exhausting just reading the list, but he wouldn’t have it any other way.
I miss the predictability of a lawyer’s paycheck, but I relish wearing all sorts of hats now.
With several full-time staff members helping out and partners covering when he’s away, Juno has become more than just a business – it’s a community.
Wine O’Clock Wisdom
The monthly steak and wine nights (RM88 for grass-fed Angus beef and a glass of wine) perfectly capture Juno’s philosophy: wine shouldn’t be reserved for special occasions.
It should be woven into the fabric of daily life, paired with whatever makes you happy, whether that’s a perfectly cooked steak or a late-night bowl of noodles.
Open daily except Tuesdays (6 pm-12 am weekdays, until 1 am weekends), Juno operates in that competitive Bangsar landscape where every corner seems to house another trendy spot.
However, Lau has found his niche among natural wine enthusiasts and regular customers who appreciate his unpretentious approach to a good life.
The Pour Decision
When he’s not busy revolutionising Bangsar’s wine scene, Lau unwinds with pickleball.
His current wine obsession?
Matassa—meaning ‘forest’ in Catalan—offers fruity, floral, and mineral notes that create a journey in your mouth, said Lau.
Maybe fruit and floral chamomile on the first sip, then towards the end, some sensation in your mouth. That’s the beauty of natural wine.
It’s the kind of passionate description that makes you understand why someone would abandon a stable legal career for the unpredictable world of hospitality.
Sometimes, the most important thing is just having the courage to try.
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